Photoshop Tutorial Secrets From the Trenches: Seven Essential Steps to Digital Workflow

I've been shooting with digital cameras in my portraitdoing any of these important steps for me, since
and wedding photography studio for about five yearsevery image requires a different amount in order for
now, and in that time I've taken well over 50,000it to be optimum. The images that come off the
exposures. Our studio has been around for aboutcamera tend to look a little flat, dull and sometimes
twenty five years, and it is busy, so creating a digitalnot sharp. But that's good! I get to adjust these
workflow that made sense was essential to not onlymyself. The saturation will add a whole lot of life to
our sanity, but our bottom line as well. After all, we'reyour images, if done properly. Again, less is more.
in business to turn a profit, and time is money.One ofHere's how: In Photoshop go to Image/Adjustements
the reasons this is so important is because so manyHueSaturation and pull the middle saturation slider
photographers get bogged down and stuck in timeover to the right. It helps if you enlarge your image
wasting systems, systems that are over complicatedso you can really see this effect and not over do it.
and too "perfect'. In the real world, where real clientsThis works very well on scenics and underwater
pay the bills, and making them happy on a consistentimages as well. But be careful not to over process.
daily basis is critical, getting the job done as fast asRemember, less is more.Burning and Dodging: Over
possible is essential.Let give you a "snapshot"and over, I see it all the time. Using the right amount
overview of our digital workflow. You should knowof good old fashioned burning or dodging and you will
that all the stratgies we've created in our studio aretake your images to whole new level. It isn't easy to
not new. They are essentially the same as when wemaster however. Way back when I started out in
shot film. Nothing has changed, except the media, thephotography, my mentors and early instructors were
turnaround times (faster, much faster!), and, ofwell versed and skilled in the ways of this traditional
course, the huge learning curve. Which we'veapplication. They knew and valued the importance of
over-complicated beyond anything that makesan image that was properly worked. The rookie
sense.Funny thing is, I've come to realize that themistake I see over and over is either not using
learning curve is quite small when you do only theenough (or none at all), or using too much. It takes
things required and when you use only the essentialsome doing but this skill is worth mastering. Here's
tools.Here are the seven steps to digital photographyhow: On the toolbar in Photoshop, click on the dodge
workflow:Good capture: This is the starting point.burn tool. It has both. Burning is by far the one you
Without a properly exposed file and good colorwill use the most. When you select burn, the control
balance, you are in the "taking corrective measures"bar accross the top will allow you to set the brush
mode. You don't want to be there. In time you wouldoptions. These settings are vital to your success.
go crazy if you had to "fix" every file, so you needFirst, select a soft brush. The size will depend on the
to master these two basics. Good photography andarea you are burning. When I am burning all around an
fast, painless workflow starts with good exposureimage, I generally choose a larger than the image
and good white balance. A good exposure meansarea size. Next, choose Highlights in the range options.
you have as many of the tones, from the blacks allNext, bring your exposure down, way down to
the way to the whites, in the image. The middleabout 20. Now you are are ready to do the first
tones are exactly where you want them to be, instep. Burn all around a few times, and stop after you
the middle. How can you check this? Shoot a greynotice a very slight darkening. Next, switch the
card, and check your histogram of that grey cardRange to midtones. The first step, in highlight mode in
image in Photoshop. The levels should show youthe Range bar, gives your image some teeth for the
most of the data in the middle, or very close. If younext step. Now burn around again, careful not to
are off, you are either over or under exposing yourover do it. The success of proper burning will depend
files and you are asking for trouble. Your whiteon how well you can achieve an almost
balance should be neutral, with no color cast. Howimperceptable dark vignette look to the image. If it's
can you verify? You should first of all should betoo obvious, then you've over done it. I should point
creating a custom white balance for each lightingout that this is not recommended for white or very
scenario. In our studio I created a custom whitelight images.Sizing: Almost done. We size two ways.
balance and never change it. It works all the timeFor prints smaller than 11"x14", we use the crop tool
because the lights and the studio setting is consistent.and simply crop and save as required. For larger prints
On location each scenario requires a custom whitewe use a technique that will magically increase your
balance. It's very easy when you get the hang of it.images to just about any size without any virtual
To check that you are getting a fairly neutral imagedeteriotion. Here's how. In Photoshop go to Image
from you custom white balance, again, shoot a greyImage Size. In Document Size, switch the option in
card, in Photoshop use the color picker, and the RGBthe drop down menu from inches to percentage.
numbers should all be very close together. ThisOnly do this on the top "witdh" option: replace 100%
means your image is neutral. If any of the RGBwith 110% and click okay. Make sure Constrain
numbers are way off, you have a color cast in thatProportions and Resample Image options on the
direction. Master this and you are 90% of the waylower left are clicked on. The image will increase in
to success.Adjust contrast: For many images wesize by 10%. Do this until you have reached the size
hardly do much contrast adjusting. Sometimes weyou want. It's amazing! Virtually no deteriotion at
slightly "tweak" the file in levels, but you can easilysizes up to and beyond 40 inches. Try it.Sharpening:
get carried away here and 'over process' the image.This is the last step, well, almost. My sharpening
When you do that, there's no turning back. It's likeapproach is not something you will hear about in any
over-cooking a steak. Too late, once it's cooked. Socourse or book. Again, I figured out what works, and
be careful here. My rule of thumb? Less is more. Ifwhat works best. I was able to get tack sharp
you have to ask yourself "Does this need moreimages from file sizes as small as 3.4 MP. Here's how:
contrast?," then you're done. STOP! But I do a stepGo to Filter/Sharpen/Unsharp and start with these
before anything else, and it does adjust the contrastsettings: Amount 500%, Radius .2, and Threshold 0.
as a side effect. You will never hear about this in anyClick on preview. Highlight the Radius number and
digital photography course or book. As a matter ofstart to increase that number (I use the "up" arrow
fact, they will ("they", being the "experts") likelyon my keyboard) one step at a time until the image
frown upon this step. Try it anyhow. We do, onslightly "pops". That's when it's done. If it pops too
every sinlgle image we work on. And that's a lot ofmuch, bring it back one number in the radius. I don't
images. Here it is: In Photoshop go to Filter/Sharpeneven touch the other two settings. They will not
Unsharp mask. Apply the following settings: Amountrecommend this technique in any course or book, but
60 Radius 20 Threshold 0. See how it removes theit works in the trenches. I'm sure it breaks all sorts of
haze? Cool uh? And it just beefs the image up a bit.rules. The final step for all images is by to Filter/Noise
Now this filter is also used to sharpen image, but thisAdd Noise, and set the amount at 1. Why do I do
step is not a sharpening step. We call it the de-fogthis? It gives the image a slight texture, a little bit of
step.Enhance the skin tones: For all you nature and"love".That's it! In a nutshell. From the trenches. There
scenic photographers this step may not apply. But tryare more technical and highly advanced ways of
it anyhow, it may help. The idea behind it is to bringgetting these steps done, but frankly, in the end, you
out the reds in our skin tones, for all skin types. Inwon't see the difference. I know, I tried em all! Fact
the good old days of retouching by hand, we usedis the only expert in the game of portrait
to finish the print off with a layer of red. This alwaysphotography is the client. All she cares about is great
brought the final steps of those long tediouslooking images. She doesn't care if I shot using RAW
retouching by hand steps together just nicely. Howmode (which I don't by the way, always JPEG). She
do we do this? Simple. In Photoshop go to Imagedoesn't care how many megapixels I use. She doesn't
Adjustements/Selective Color. You will notice thatcare what kind of lights I use, how I workflowed my
the red channel is the default chanel. This is the oneimages, whether I did them on a MAC or a PC (PC
we want so don't switch. Pull the top slider, Cyan,by the way). She ultimately is the final judge and
over to the left, and watch the colors, especially injury.Robert Provencher has been a professional
the skin, warm up. Adjust it to your taste. We findportrait and wedding photographer for over 25 years.
that most images are within the -20 to- 40 range.He has trained hundreds of professional
That's it! Assuming you have a good exposure andphotographers throughout North America in live
good white balance, this is the only color "enhancing"workshops and through his online forum. Robert has
you will need to do.Adjust the saturation: When Iauthored several manuals on digital photography and
shoot I turn the cameras' sharpening, contrast andphotogaphy marketing.
saturation features off. I don't want the camera